Berlin-based womenswear label Lala Berlin celebrated its inaugural runway showing at Toronto Fashion Week last month. The line, founded in 2003 by designer by Leyla Piedayesh, aims to accent a woman’s personal style through an eclectic mix of soft modern knitwear and rock-and-roll staples.

Piedayesh’s “woman” this season appears to be a psychedelic hippie with a rock-and roll edge. Textiles were manipulated to create something new and modern, draped and slung over loosely on some garments, while closely cropped and asymmetrical on others. Our personal favorites were the knitted tops with transparent overlays, and the dresses printed with an almost mezmerizing kaleidoscope print.

Piedayesh did a lot of collaborating in producing this collection, partnering with German brands Unützer on the footwear, and CHRIST on the accessories. “It’s always good to get the knowledge and also the capacities of other people to do things that they can do much better than I do,” Piedayesh explains. “I think collaborations are quite important to do since we’re still quite young [and] we are not able to do everything at this point.”

Utilizing outside talent has certainly worked to the designer’s benefit, with some ultra-chic harness necklaces and suede cut-out heels finishing the models’ looks before they stomped down the runway in Toronto.

But why show in Toronto? Piedayesh says it’s a mix of wanting a global fashion hub and plain ol’ curiousity. “This was a really nice occasion to see a place I’ve never been to before,” she says, “and really I have to say that I’ve met some really nice people here.”

Next season might see Lala Berlin take over New York, or venture back to Europe. More collaborations could also be on the way. The possibilities are endless for the young brand, and Piedayesh says she’s just trying to go with the flow and not over-think it.

“As long as you feel right with whatever you’re wearing and doing, I think everything will be fine,” she says. “At the end of the day I think everybody should just be comfortable, whether in clothing or in everyday life.” We know scores of women who will be more than comfortable wearing Lala Berlin this Spring.

- James Lavapie

(photos courtesy FDCC / George Pimentel Photography)

It’s no longer de la mode to harp on the inconsistencies of Toronto Fashion Week or dwell on how late it falls in the season compared to all the other fashion weeks around the world. Because let’s face it, by the time Toronto Fashion Week rolls around, the Canadian designers who know what they’re doing have likely already previewed their new collections for the international press and been to a handful of trade shows and back, meeting buyers and (hopefully) filling out orders for the season ahead. Toronto Fashion Week then, is simply an excuse for them to get the clothes on real models (and off the trade show racks) and put on a show for the appreciative local audience. Sales appointments stemming from TFW are few; tweets are innumerable.

But while the importance of Toronto Fashion Week pales in comparison to say, Paris or Milan, it’s not without its merits. Those who argue that the event is out of touch or outclassed are missing an opportunity to catch potential rising stars in all their gloriously idealistic (and occasionally naive) infancy. And I mean that in a good way. Then there are the established veterans of the Toronto fashion scene, who are slowly but surely beginning to make their mark outside of the city. Without TFW, they would just be another designer or retailer. Now, they’ve been given a launching pad and we all have front row seats for take-off.

Here are five things that we liked from the spring/summer 2012 collections at Toronto Fashion Week:

1. EFFICIENCY was the name of the game all week, with shows starting punctually (some so punctually that half the audience missed it) and a well-paced schedule that alternated well between the large runway room under the tents at David Pecaut Square and the smaller studio space a few steps away.

Efficiency also made its way into many of the designers’ offerings, most notably local wunderkind Amanda Lew Kee (photo from collection at left), who paired her spring/summer collection down to just over a dozen tidy looks, after brazenly sending some 40 outfits down the runway just one season ago. The editing helped. While we found the looks kind of… basic (a bold digital print splashed onto a T-shirt by any other name is a printed tee), the pieces were accessible and wearable, paired with oxford flats and visors for a cute-meets-practical vibe and hopefully, a spot in your closet this spring.

2. BOLD PRINTS are easy to wear when they’re done well. And this season saw plenty of bold and beautiful prints, from Denis Gagnon’s floral tuxedo suit (as part of his aptly named “Denise au Jardin” collection), to Label’s marine-inspired palette (above middle), to Chloe Comme Parris’ Victorian era-esque garments, inspired by their mother’s artwork (coincidentally, fellow sibling-designers JUMA also unveiled prints inspired by their mother – only it was their mother’s photographs rather than paintings). Special mention also goes to Toronto-born and current Paris-resident Calla Haynes, who presented her spring/summer 2012 collection at pre-TFW event “The ShOws.” Haynes – who designs her own prints – showed a range of retro-inspired motifs on delicate, romantic frocks. But it was her acid-washed look on a denim jacket and pant combo that really grabbed our attention. And when we’re praising an acid wash look, you know there’s something special there.

3. WHITES. There’s nothing wrong with using white as the main color of a collection. But often there’s nothing exciting about it either. But when Thomas Tait presented his collection at “The ShOws,” it was astounding to see the way in which he made white stand out. The pieces were at once futuristic and retro, playing with length and shape to create a look that was androgynous and strange and undeniably beautiful. The Montreal-native and Central Saint Martins grad is now based in London and there were hints of British mod and rock influences in there as well. Throughout it all, Tait’s deft handiwork was evident in each garment, as he effortlessly mixed influences and textures (think loosely draped necks on dresses and fine ribbing on athletics-inspired pants) Paired with white tube socks and white Nike sneakers, the collection proved that there’s hardly anything basic about white.

4. “CANADA COOL” was the theme for Toronto Fashion Week this season, and while the tagline is both a) a little elementary school assembly-ish and b) grammatically incorrect, we couldn’t have felt any “cooler” or any more Canadian when Joe Fresh’s spring/summer collection marched down the runway. With a U.S. flagship store set to open on Fifth Avenue in New York, all eyes were on Joe Mimran’s team to see if they could deliver something worth boasting about to our neighbours to the south – and they did. With hits of bright color (including the label’s signature orange), vibrant prints and a greater emphasis on setting the trends rather than remaking the classics, the collection captured the whimsy of spring with elegance and subtlety in check. We were especially surprised to see a great range of menswear looks, that ran the gamut from nautical-inspired jackets and sweaters, to patterned blazers and clean-cut slacks. This being a mass-produced store brand, the small details were appreciated all the more: collars in contrasting colors and sizes, perfectly pleated skirts and a delicate ribbon or bow here and there.

And while comparisons to labels like Jil Sander will continue (it’s almost inevitable when you play with color blocking and volume), it’s clear that Joe Fresh is intent on making a name for itself in the U.S., without relinquishing its throne in Canada anytime soon.

5. WE JUST LIKE TO HAVE FUN. At the end of the day, we can’t take fashion so seriously. (Although, try telling that to the countless “bloggers” and “stylists” who whined and eye-rolled their way to a front row seat) Where else but in Canada can you find an entire runway show featuring garments created out of rugs? Or a lingerie brand and workout line showing as part of the week’s official festivities? The thing is, both of these shows were actually pretty fun to attend. While there are still many designers who profess that they’re “just having fun” when they’re actually taking themselves way too seriously, there’s something to be said about having a little creativity…with a wink. For another example, look no further than Sid Neigum and VAWK designer Sunny Fong: both showed some sprouty eyelashes as part of their models’ makeup look this week (photos above left). It was a memorable little touch that served to reinforce the aesthetic they were going for (Asian avant-garde for Neigum and “insects and architecture” at VAWK), while also showing that it’s okay for fashion to be frivolous and amusing (or bemusing) sometimes.

On the last night and last show of Toronto Fashion Week, Denis Gagnon closed out his presentation by sending out two female models dressed up (or down, depending on how you see it) for a mock wedding ceremony, complete with a kiss at the end of the runway. Everyone applauded wildly, the photographers in the pit snapped away and before long, Gagnon was practically skipping down the runway himself to join the models for a final bow. It was a fitting end to the week and a perfect reminder that whether it’s in Toronto or elsewhere, a little bit of fun can often go a long way.

- Tim Chan

(photos by Jenna Marie Wakani)

Reviews of collections that come down the runway during Toronto Fashion Week are usually marked by some form of polite applause or safely-worded statements about being “Canadian” and having a “unique” place in the industry. It’s often as much about biting one’s tongue as it is about promoting and supporting local designers, whether their collections merit a mention or not. But this season, there was much to like (and even love!) as designers stepped up their game and models stepped down the runway.

Here are five things in particular that caught our eye:

1. COLOR
Whether it was the bright orange neoprene coat that kicked off Joe Fresh’s otherwise muted (in showmanship, not design) show, or the beautiful turquoise trench that had the crowd swooning at VAWK, designers proved that bold colors do not have to be solely reserved for spring and summer. Colors weren’t just used as subtle accents either; entire pieces were constructed around rich jewel tones and bright shades of yellow, green and blue (could royal blue be the new basic black?)

For Joe Mimran in particular (the designer behind Joe Fresh), the inspired bursts of color he showcased bode well for catching the attention of New York’s fickle fashion elite, as the company moves forward with plans of setting up shop at the corner of 5th Avenue and 43rd Street in the ‘Apple. We’re genuinely curious to see which (if any) of these pieces make it into the New York store.

Not everyone did color correctly though. While we applaud Amanda Lew Kee’s fast rise and appreciate her continued growth as a designer, the tiered, garland gowns she showed (photo at right) felt more Kris Kringle than Christopher Kane. If only she subscribed to the “less is more” philosophy, because the basic black cut-out tops and slinky sheer dresses she showed (and even the slender dress smothered under the all-too-festive shaggy gold tinsel look) were definitely on trend and on par with the best and most wearable/sellable of the week’s offerings.

2. ACCESSORIES

When we previewed sibling designers Chloe Comme Parris’ line in their Rosedale studio a few months ago, our eyes were immediately drawn to a leather bag that Parris Gordon (the younger sister and accessories designer for the line) was working on. Crafted in a perfectly gloomy grey-green Italian leather and accented with chunky silver buckles, the bag was as tough and chic as it was utilitarian. Imagine our delight when the bag — and a similar bag styled as a backpack — came down the runway at the sisters’ show! They were the perfect accessory for the Chloe Comme Parris girl: in our minds, an aggressively urban nomad with a feminine and sexy streak.

The sisters use of chains, crystals and amulets further added to (and also grounded) their Medieval and architecture-inspired collection for fall. It was an example of how best to use accessories to accent the clothing, as opposed to wearing it all wrong the other way around (honorable mention to Philip Sparks for his oversized fur mitts and cozy fur muff).

3. COMFORT

Unless you’re Lady Gaga, it’s no fun trying to squeeze yourself into a ridiculous outfit or too-tight top for the sake of “fashion” (just ask Mariah Carey). It’s unflattering, uncalled for, and frankly, more than a little uncomfortable for both the wearer and observer(s). That’s why we were so pleased to see the return of clothes that actually looked comfortable to wear. Philip Sparks did it right by pairing his cozy, cotton oxford shirts with pleated cotton-sateen skirts (the latter adorned with a perfectly-Canadian maple leaf photo print). And we know dozens of friends who will want to wrap themselves up in LINE Knitwear’s luxurious fur stoles and chunky cable-knit sweaters, or Rita Liefhebber’s oversized cardigans and super warm knit leggings come fall. The pieces were as elegant as they were comfy, proving that the two virtues of fashion no longer have to stand opposed.

4. THE NEW KIDS

Speaking to a colleague the other day, I remarked at how much the schedule changes each season at Toronto Fashion Week. The new names and faces showing collections one season are mere afterthoughts just six months later. Chalk it up to a slightly skewed sentiment in the local fashion scene that promotes a 7-minute runway show as the quintessential moment in a new designer’s career. Sure it gets your name out there, but you still have to market and sell the clothes, and figure out how to get your collection out of the blogs and into the stores, months after the euphoria of the catwalk has worn off. Many of the new labels showing at Fashion Week just don’t have the foresight for building longevity, let alone building buzz. But this season gave us a new reason to believe in the kids. Young designers like Sid Neigum (collection pictured above) and Chloe Comme Parris (not to mention still-young designers like Liefhebber and LABEL’s Shawna Robinson and Natalie Sydoruk) proved their mettle with tightly curated collections that gave us a clear sense of their aesthetic and wide-ranging talent, while also giving buyers enough to warrant a second (more up close and personal) look. Their collections were as focused on making a statement as they were on making something people would actually want to wear, setting these “kids” up nicely for the future. See you next season guys!

5. MARK FAST
For many Canadian designers, taking their work and showing outside the country is often considered the first sign of credibility and success. And yet this season, Winnipeg-native-turned-UK-design-darling Mark Fast decided to showcase his beautiful fall collection at home.

In front of an intimate group of friends and industry-types in an unfinished ballroom at Toronto’s (still-under construction) Trump International Tower, Fast exhibited a humbleness and class that has made him a beloved designer the world over — and that was even before a single model came out. Speaking with Fashion Television’s Jeanne Beker in an at-times awkward but ultimately satisfying Q&A prior to the show, Fast expressed the pride he felt to finally fulfil his dream of showing in Canada. He also took time to highlight the genuine camaraderie he felt with fellow designer Mikhael Kale (who also showed his collection at Trump) and thanked everyone for their unwavering support.

And then he showed his new collection. And between the luxurious and painstakingly-detailed knit dresses, or the ambitious leather pieces designed in collaboration with Danier, Fast wowed the crowd with his eye for intricate shapes and innovative play on textures. The results were unexpected, at times daring and ultimately satisfying to watch.

- Tim Chan

(photos by Jenna Marie Wakani)

We played “Ten Questions” with designers showing as part of Toronto Fashion Week, which ended last Friday. Brandon Dwyer’s collection (under the “BASCH by Brandon” moniker) showcased some fun and flirty pieces perfect for ladies who lunch, or as it may be, their socialite daughters who brunch. The short tiered dresses and the cropped trousers were a particular highlight — at once delicate and strong, and all the while charming.

We caught up with Dwyer after the show to talk about the new collection. Here’s how he answered our fashion week questionnaire…

How many hours of sleep did you get last night?
Sleep…. What’s that? I do coffee.

What was the inspiration for this new collection?
I spent a few weeks in the countryside of Paris and got inspired by the serenity and calmness of the scenery and lifestyle there.

What is your favorite piece from the collection?
I definitely love the chiffon pants. They are extremely sexy and chic.

What is one thing you can’t live without during fashion week?
My friends and family! They get me through all the ups and downs. I would be nothing without them.

Now that fashion week is over for you, what do you do to relax?
Right now I’m watching Uptown Girls with my bestie Andi and my cousin Kristie. We ordered in some food. And we’re gossiping!

What is your favorite fashion film?
I would have to say Valentino, The Last Emperor.

Who is someone (dead or alive) that you would love to dress?
I would adore dressing Rachel McAdams; she is lovely inside and out.

Our magazine is based on the idea that a corduroy jacket never goes out of style. What else “never goes out of style?”
A good v-neck tee.

What are three key pieces to buy for spring 2011?
I would say a jumpsuit, a simple draped jersey dress and a pair of relaxed fit tapered dress pants.

What is the best fashion advice you’ve ever received?
Always be true to yourself (works with all aspects of my life really…!)

We’re playing “Ten Questions” with designers taking part in Toronto Fashion Week, which ended last week. New York to Calgary-transplant Lauren Bagliore debuted an ambitious collection of beautiful, feminine frocks, that was borne out of personal tragedy, but evolved into something ethereal. Here is how Bagliore answered our Fashion Week questionnaire.

How many hours of sleep did you get last night?
Definitely not enough. I think my body is still trying to catch-up from the last three months of extra hard work and from travelling and running my business between New York and Calgary. I could use some beauty rest, but it will have to wait till after the next few weeks. Now is not the time to be sleeping beauty.

What was the inspiration for this new collection?
There is not one thing that I am influenced by when I design–my influences are all encompassing; they are all around me. They can be people, art, places that have impacted me, and mainly–my personal life experiences I have endured. When I am creating a new collection, I start with a blank canvas so-to-speak. I try to begin “fresh;” I do not look at trends or follow what others are doing. My inspiration really comes from within. I look at my life and reflect with what I have been though the last while–and contemplate what I have learned. When I ponder a specific life-theme, I then begin to draw from it creatively.

For example, for this season I contemplated the concepts of life and death, as I had endured not just one but some major family tragedies this past year. It was just horrid. I almost did not do this collection. But then, after some time, I persevered though and came up with the concept of “La Risurrezione: Dalla Scura Alla Luce” which means, “The Resurrection: From the Dark to the Light.” I thought, “What have I learned from this experience? What story can I tell through my work –though creation– that can offer something of integrity that is truthful to me? And from this experience, from what I have endured personally, what can I create — even from the most ugly of experiences — that translates to be beautiful? What can I share, coming out of the ashes and into to beauty? So this is what this Collection is about. And you can see and experience the transformation from dark to light both figuratively and literally, not just in the colour-palette but in how the collection evolves on the runway.

What is your favorite piece from the collection?
I would have to say that my favourite piece from the collection is tied between the Athena toga gown and the Jill Marie asymmetrical draped dress. The Jill Marie dress is made of luxurious Italian black viscose jersey and has an ‘architectural’ feel but is also very fluid in how I draped it. It really boasts a subtly-sexy silhouette, with bat-wing-like draped panels at back. It is a strong piece and is a gorgeous alternative to any black dress. It is bold yet completely feminine–created with my special draping technique that is very signature. I feel that this piece that it best reflects the Lauren Bagliore look, as I love draping in jersey fabrications. It just feels natural for me and I really come alive as a designer when creating a piece like this.

What is one thing you can’t live without during fashion week?
I really need some peace amidst the hustle and bustle of everything going on around me during fashion week. No matter how much work I have to do, I really have to make intentional moments to have some quiet time. It really helps keep me grounded despite the seemingly millions of details that need my attention. I also really appreciate having a hot bubble bath soak–with lots of bath salts and lavender oil at the end of the day–even if it is at a crazy hour. I try to make time to allow myself that special treat!

Now that fashion week is over for you, what do you do to relax?
Now is the time to really work to maintain the contacts we have, to make new ones, and to really follow-up with the momentum from the show. This is still the time to shine.

What is your favorite fashion film?
Don’t have one…but any of Lady Gaga’s videos tell a story of fashion through her art, and I just love seeing the costumes she comes up with. I love that she is a girl from New York — like me — and has a big dream as well. She wears what she wants, and appreciates the talent of emerging designers. I love that as a music artist and entertainer, Lady Gaga presents herself as having a love for the avant-garde in fashion. I would love to make her something myself.

Who is someone (dead or alive) that you would love to dress?
Aside from Lady Gaga, I would love to dress Agyness Deyn. She is not just a model but a personality and she says it in how she dresses. I just love her style, her spunk, and her personality–she just rocks any look with confidence –very true to what we do and what we represent at Lauren Bagliore.

Our magazine is based on the idea that a corduroy jacket never goes out of style. What else “never goes out of style?
Wearing something you love and feel good in, year after year, but reinventing it in a new way on yourself. I believe that if you wear it with confidence, then it NEVER goes out of style. Never. Forget what the trends seemingly dictate. Wear it, and rock it confidently and boldly, and then no one can tell you it is is out of style. Let it become part of you, part of your unique signature look. You can put that in your corduroy jacket pocket. Then you certainly will be good to go.

What are three key pieces to buy for spring 2011?
Something with stripes to make a statement, a convertible piece that can be worn more than one way (like our Desiree Endless dress that can be worn as a cowl neck top, as a tunic, as a halter dress, hooded funnel neck, tube dress etc.), and also, of course, a signature Lauren Bagliore Wilhelmina WaSPY draped Trench for the Spring rainy season in our high-tech Japanese hematite black water resistant nylon! Trust me, it is interesting and beautiful enough to wear as a layering piece in less inclement weather as well!

What is the best fashion advice you’ve ever received?
Wear something to flatter your body so that you will feel good about yourself in what you are wearing. Do not fret to try to fit in a certain ‘size’ just for the sake of a label. Every designer cuts differently. Do not let a size label define you. Wear what suits your shape. You, my dear, are unique–unlike anybody else. Know it, and own it. Then you will feel confident despite what size you are. And if it really bothers you that much, just cut-out the size tag inside!