Robert Geller’s spring/summer show was one of the most anticipated of the week for many fashion editors and buyers — and for good reason: the German-native-turned-New Yorker’s clothes are refreshingly inventive with a high taste level, yet eminently wearable for all types of men, from the streets of New York to well, Berlin.

For his latest collection, Geller took inspiration from 1950s Germany — a time in which the country was working hard to leave the horrors of war behind in favor of a hopeful and prosperous future. The long runway at Exit Art (on Manhattan’s west side) reinforced the theme, with charred gray tiles leading to an archway of flowers, from which the models entered and exited. In the same way, the clothes that came down the runway were both dark and light, with rich shades of dusty plum and midnight blues sharing the stage with clean whites, tans and grays. The pieces were loose and layered, as per Geller’s signature, but tailored just enough to make out a strong and modern silhouette. And while the washed cotton jackets and heavy slacks suggested a utilitarian feel, pieces like the flowing silk scarves, men’s leggings (a la Rick Owens) and wool pants bunched at the knee added a playful and whimsical quality to Geller’s normally dark and moody aesthetic. In fact, it felt more like a collection for boys on vacation in Europe, than it did a statement on post-war German society. Every piece felt like it could be lifted from a suitcase and thrown on for a party, long hike, or motorcycle ride through the hills. These are the types of pieces you could wear in, beat up and re-wear over and over again, all the while knowing you’re the best dressed man in the room..

- TC