Kahlo. Rivera. Botero. All names that inform our perception of Latin American art. But that was then and this is now, and these days, one doesn’t necessarily point their finger south of the equator when discussing the latest goings on in the fickle art world. Well, that’s all about to change. Last week, Corduroy was fortunate enough to attend arteBA ’10 (pronounced art-eh-ba), Latin America’s largest contemporary art fair which ran from from June 25th to the 29th in beautiful Buenos Aires. But before we immersed ourselves in the madness that lay ahead, we had a chance to explore the city’s historic San Telmo district — a bohemian neighbourhood rich in classic architecture and culture; a neighbourhood that our friend Astrid from Think Argentina told us is “filled with a thousand little secrets.”
We spent our first night in the stunning Moreno hotel, a perfect embodiment of derelict San Telmo. The quintessential Art Deco building was designed by German/Hungarian architect Johannes Kronfuss in 1929 and has retained all of its old world charm, much like Buenos Aires itself. Yes, the rumours are true: this city is easy to fall in love with. It’s a sprawling cultural melting pot; a crossroads between Paris’ haute aesthetic and Latin American warmth. It ‘s the ideal venue for a city-wide art fest that rivals Miami’s Art Basel in both size and scope.
But as we awaited the opening cocktail festivities and the string of lavish parties that would no doubt follow, we decided to flee the city for some last minute R&R. The majestic Iguazu falls are only a short plane ride from Argentina’s capital, and by all accounts a must-see. We were lucky enough to stay at the recently opened Posada Puerto Bemberg, a gorgeous colonial mansion-turned hotel that seamlessly combines art, natural history, literature, and of course wine. Named after its former owners the Bemberg family (patriachs of Argentinia’s national beer Quilmes), the remote estate is situated in the heart of the Atlantic rain forest, but doesn’t let its geography detract from its luxury. Strategically located on the expansive Parana river, The Posada features an epic library of over 2500 books, mostly on Latin American art, the perfect primer for the week ahead. After several hours of perusal, we stumbled on a series of arteBA anthologies from years past. With history as an indicator, we knew we were in for a special treat. Stay tuned for Corduroy’s complete recap and coverage of arteBA ’10 from Buenos Aires!
-Daniel Barna
