You know Greg Armas as the guy who brought a dash of paired down, European cool to L.A. with his mens and womenswear boutique Scout, which introduced brands like Henrik Vibskov and Jessica Ogden to the Abercrombie-wearing masses. Now, Armas is bringing his carefully-curated sensibility to New York — and the Lower East Side in particular — with a vintage boutique and new menswear line, both named “Assembly.” If Scout helped Angelenos to button up and update their wardrobes, Assembly is helping New Yorkers to loosen up and re-embrace the past, in the form of classic, cozy menswear pieces, re-interpreted for the modern-day man. We spoke to Armas about the move from retailer to designer, and why not being trendy will actually help his clothing line better stand out.

How did Assembly come about? How does Assembly the clothing line defer from Assembly the store?
After I opened Scout in Los Angeles I wanted to continue the retail concept of creating a timeline with clothes; referencing the new with the old. The Assembly clothing line has grown out of this process of referencing the past to inform the present. Like the shop, it is vintage-inspired and edited down to just necessary pieces. As of October, the namesake collection will be available globally, though we always have exclusive pieces available just in the shop from limited edition fabrics.

What prompted the move from retail to designing?
The collection is designed from a retailer point of view. I was looking to create pieces that were seasonless and filled the gaps I found in my own buying experience — the everyday pants, shirts and jackets that someone can wear throughout the week.

Who is the Assembly customer?
Someone who is informed and future-primitive. Someone who appreciates subtlety and humor.

How would you describe the aesthetic of your line? What were the inspirations behind this season’s looks?
I looked at different ideas of the “uniform” (from Orthodox Jews to soldiers) and poured over any turn-of-the-century European workwear I could find. We were purposefully working with a limited palette and pattern selection so that all the pieces could easily translate into someone’s current wardrobe. I loathe excessiveness.

With so many other clothing lines being launched nowadays, what makes your line stand out?
The fabrics and construction are paramount. All the linens and knits were created exclusively for the collection. If it is unique, hopefully it is due to its more generic qualities and longevity. Our production is all in one location by local hands in Macedonia and completely “free trade” in modern terms. I wanted to produce future-vintage quality clothes that would have a place, regardless of trends, in someone’s life.

What’s the difference between the L.A. and New York fashion scenes?
Weather. L.A. is about the cruise… You don’t stress about the clothes on your back as much because everybody’s mainly concerned with staying comfortable. New York has more of an international aesthetic and heritage, visible every time you walk out your door. I feel like people come to New York to do or be something and how you’re perceived is important, whether it’s through your dress, opinions, etc.

How are you pricing your garments? With all the talk about the recession, how does that factor into your pricing and production?
The whole range was formed around an idea of discrete luxury. Pockets are lined with fur or cashmere, all the hardware was removed from the pieces, buttons wrapped in fabric, full silk linings… The details in all the pieces are concealed and available just to the wearer. This was my answer to cost effectiveness in terms of a customer knowing what it is they are paying for and getting to personally experience that benefit.

How involved are you in the designing process? Where do you pull your ideas from?
Traveling is the main inspiration. For both the freedom of mind it provides and all the new information you take in when your senses are heightened. Each piece is usually a product of clippings, sketches, conversations and trial and error. I like to wear the samples a bit to see if they really fit correctly and break-in appropriately and then oversee production. It’s an involved process.

Who are your personal style icons? How would you describe your personal style?
Dries Van Noten and Anne Demeulemeester. And the homeless really. I get the most inspiration from the guys that live in the park next to my apartment. Growing up in Oregon has proven a big influence in lots of little ways. I definetely have my own personal uniforms; as best as I can tell I’m still wearing my clothes from junior high.

What’s next for Assembly (the store and the line)?
Small level inhouse publishing of some images and music gathered from friends since opening the shop in the form of a book and album. Also we had several collaborations that came out of the collection. Currently we’re releasing a series of horsehair necklace/keychains with Wendy Nichols and have just put out our first bag, an oversize unisex leather tote crafted by Makr Carry Goods. There’s an antique prayer bead necklace that was reworked in onyx and black pearls that will be out next month… I need a bigger space, we’re full of ideas…

Assembly New York is located at 174 Ludlow Street in the Lower East Side. Store info and online shopping at www.assemblynewyork.com.

(photos by Tim Hill)

- TC