You got to know Simon Spurr recently as part of our web exclusive series on designers’ “Ten Things That Never Go Out of Style.” Now, check out images from Spurr’s spring/summer presentation for New York Fashion Week. The British-born designer’s menswear collection was inspired by vintage Helmut Newton photographs, presenting a romantic take on the dashing young, modern man. Refreshing bursts of color punctuated the trim and tailored looks, which included pastel shirts, 60s-inspired sailor pants and trenches, and generous wool/silk-blend suits. Flowers in the suit lapels adding to the chic, yet relaxed styling. We loved the use of color, which was a much-needed antidote to the parade of blacks and grays seen coming down the runway for men this year. The peaches and yellows in particular, felt soft and luxurious, yet still subtle enough for menswear. We also loved that Spurr brought back a wide-leg trouser and relaxed trench (in addition to his slim-fit offerings), which allows for more movement and ease with the clothes. That seemed to be the general feel of his presentation this year: light, easy and comfortable, yet ever-so handsome and put together as always.
We recently met up with designer Yigal Azrouël to take his portrait for an upcoming issue of Corduroy. He was chatty and friendly and looked like he didn’t have a care in the world — a surprising if not slightly frightening idea considering he had his new collection to show just a few weeks later. As it turns out, we should have known not to worry. The clothes (for men and women) on display at his spring/summer show under the tents were some of the most original and exciting designs we’ve seen come down the runway so far this year. And we were already making a checklist of things we wanted to own even before the last model hit the stage.
Azrouël’s previous collections introduced him as a godsend of sorts to New York design. He was someone who made clothes that were tough and stylish without being pretentious; uniquely trendy and urban, while remaining grounded in classic lines and comfort. This year’s collection was a study in geometry and contrasts, with bold shapes and silhouettes off-set by trim and tailored pieces in a palette of muted grays and greens. Beat-up leather jackets and vests for men had exaggerated collars and structured shoulders, while the women’s dresses and tops featured bandage draping, slashed backs and subtle layering. As with many of Azrouël’s collections, texture was key, with a lacerated jersey fabric sharing the runway with washed leather, open weave linens and even a touch of houndstooth. The look was tough and nomadic, while retaining an air of civility and all-around cool. Think of these clothes as the ultimate “F-you” outfit to standard dressing fare; edgy, in-your-face looks that say “I know I look and feel good, whether you’re hip enough to notice or not.” We know we’re paying very close attention.
Number of shows that featured models in ironic glasses: 2 (Rachel Comey and Monarchy… Comey’s frames were from our fave, Sol Moscot)
Number of celebrities at Charlotte Ronson show: double digits (though the biggest “celebrities” by our account were Russell Simmons, singers Amerie and Keri Hilson and actress Tricia Helfer)
Number of gossip girls at Twinkle by Wenlan show: 0.5 (Does Nelly Yuki count?)
Number of people in the audience who wore something other than black at the Robert Geller show: 0
Number of shows that started on time: 0
Number of shows that played Phoenix’s “Lisztomania:” 2 (Charlotte Ronson and Yigal Azrouel)
Speaking of “Lisztomania,” here’s some weekend watching and listening for you:
The Jen Kao show at Mac and Milk ended around 6:15pm last night, just as the drinks and revelry began to flow up and down Ninth Avenue in the Meatpacking District. We walked past a huge grill being set up outside Stella McCartney, though sadly, we didn’t stay for what we assume was a scrumptious barbecue. Instead, we made our way to Steven Alan’s store on Franklin Street for drinks before heading up to SoHo to join the crowds of people that were in line to get into Opening Ceremony (photo above).
Refreshment stands and an ice-cream truck kept people hydrated while they waited to browse the limited edition items inside the store and the designer-duds from Rodarte, Band of Outsiders and Alexander Wang being sold outside from the back of vintage pickup trucks. We picked up a couple ties from Band of Outsiders — a relative steal for $40 — then hung out inside where we caught up with our friend Hyden Yoo, and also watched as the crowds swarmed designers Philip Lim and Alex Wang (who arrived separately and stayed for less then ten minutes each).
The rest of the night was spent walking around SoHo, making careful note of the long lines at Bathing Ape (where Pharrell was working the cash register) and Intermix (which had a slew of celebs drop by, including Rihanna, Sienna Miller and Anna Wintour). We also stopped by Bloomingdale’s SoHo, though we later found out the big party was at the store’s flagship location on 59th Street, where Gwen Stefani held court amidst a host of other celebrities and designers. After a couple more stops — for more drinks and finger foods — we called it a night just before midnight. Still, the streets were buzzing and full of eager shoppers and fashion lovers alike even at that late hour. Whether the event helped to rejuvenate the city’s sagging retail economy remains to be seen, but at least it brought a level of fun and community back to fashion — and shopping in New York.
Jen Kao’s spring/summer show brought in a full house at the Mac and Milk studio in the Meatpacking District and the fledgling designer didn’t disappoint. Models with slicked back hair walked the runway in beautifully delicate silk jumpsuits, architectural dresses and nude tissue jersey tees and skirts. There was variety in spades, from the jolt of teal seen on the linear one-piece bathing suit that kicked off the show, to a medieval-esque beaded floor-length gown, paired with flutter chain heels that jingled as they came down the catwalk. Everyone found something they liked (or could wear) in the collection. We especially loved the loop detailing on the pants and shorts, as well as the hand-draping and subtle pleating that made the dresses feel so luxurious and decadent. It was a collection hip enough for brunch in Brooklyn, yet fashionable and rich enough to take with you to Paris.
An NYU and Parsons grad, Kao is known for her fresh, modern-takes on art- inspired pieces; contemporary cool with a touch of vintage deco. Clean lines and muted colors are key to Kao’s aesthetic, with just enough surprises thrown in to keep things interesting. Judging from the way the audience broke into applause during the last walk, it’s safe to say she did just that.
This year, Corduroy has teamed up with our friends at FLIP to bring you exclusive videos straight from the runway, taken with our FLIP Ultra HD Camcorder. Here’s a sneak peek at Kao’s collection:
- TC
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