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New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’10: Alexander Berardi

September 16th, 2009

Who is Alexander Berardi? That was the question on everyone’s mind after the debut of the designer’s spring/summer collection the other night at the Altman Building in Chelsea. Though his name sounds impossibly foreign and exotic, Berardi is an Upper East Side-raised Parsons grad, but his clothes are no less chic. His collection this season was inspired by a photo of family friends sailing on Martha’s Vineyard. The looks in our opinion, however, were less nautical and more summer party under the stars (or at least under lights strung over a backyard garden).

Working with all-natural fabrics, Berardi showed cropped tuxedo blazers and sequined cardigans paired with pleated, tiered dresses and layered mini-dresses. Though they were impeccably tailored and detailed, the garments looked effortless and easy as they came down the runway. Soft grays, beiges and blacks set a classic tone, while the sequins added just the right amount of glamour. We loved the versatility of the pieces and the way they were sexy without being overt — not always an easy balance to strike. The audience seemed taken by many of the pieces that were shown, with audible “oohs” and “ahhs” in particular for some of the beautiful dresses and crinkle blouses. By the end of the show it was clear this was a collection many women would want to wear and own. And Alexander Berardi would be a name on many people’s tongues the very next day.

(photos by Dan Lecca)

- TC

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’10: Jeremy Laing

September 15th, 2009

The clothes on display at Canadian Jeremy Laing’s spring/summer presentation were in a word, stunning. Architectural and futuristic, bold yet delicate, the Toronto-based designer’s garments brought to mind Grecian goddesses, Japanese origami and even traces of cult-fave film Blade Runner. And yet for all its diverse influences, the collection was surprisingly cohesive, with each look blending in seamlessly thanks to its rich use of textures and stark palette of soft blacks, whites and grays.

Laing’s materials were almost as inventive as his designs, with coats in white stucco jacquard and dresses in silk and crinkle gauze with hand-sewn leather tiles. Tulle tights and blocked skinny pants in perforated leather and suede set the tone, with loose, flowing dresses layered on top. When the models broke from their stationary lines to start walking — one by one — for the cameras, you really saw how well the pieces moved. And while they looked pristine and almost gallery-perfect standing still, the beautiful dresses and jackets looked — dare we say — pretty comfortable to wear as well. Inventive AND wearable? That’s perhaps the best compliment of all.

- TC

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’10: Twinkle by Wenlan

September 14th, 2009

We loved the fun and joyful looks that came down the runway at the Twinkle by Wenlan show last week, though we have to admit to being just a little biased — our good friend Jo is the assistant designer of the brand, which once again showed under the tents at Bryant Park this year. We caught up with Jo after the show and asked her to tell us about the new collection.

Full name: Joanna Song

Official title: Assistant Designer

Your role at Twinkle by Wenlan: I work directly with Wenlan on developing and designing the collections, everything from initial design concepts through to production, through to styling and casting for each season’s show.

The inspiration behind this year’s show: It was the meeting of opposites. It was the mixing of the poetic attitude of Yoko Ono with the hard edged attitude of Blondie. We mixed soft with hard design elements for the collection, while injecting shots of bold unexpected colors.

How did this collection compare to year’s past? We got rid of the fluffy femininity and opted for cleaner, simpler and leaner silhouettes utilizing graphic, geometric and optical prints with punches of color. Juxtapositions of liquid draping and geometric and structured lines kept our usually floral-heavy springs feeling fresh. Lastly,we went all out on the jewelry, using bold statement pieces, mixing metals and various mediums such as hand cut plastics and chunky glass stones.

The scene backstage: It was surprisingly smooth. Whereas most years we’re scrambling for samples and searching for models, this year the drama was at a minimal. The backstage area was a little cramped with a plethora of interns, dressers, models, hair, makeup and nail staff. You get a little ADD backstage with so much going but the adrenaline keeps you going.

The Twinkle by Wenlan customer: It really varies but essentially we dress the individual seeking simple pieces with added quirky details, whether it be design details or just the print itself.

Twinkle by Wenlan is sold at boutiques and stores like Nordstrom and Anthropologie, as well as online at shopbop.com. Details at twinklebywenlan.com.

- TC

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’10: Karen Walker

September 14th, 2009

One of the more pleasant surprises so far this week was the Karen Walker show, held at the stately Altman Building in Chelsea. Walker drew inspiration from cult sixties British television show The Prisoner, which chronicles the life of an Edwardian seaside resort that’s actually a jail for retired spies. Sounds confusing? Translated onto the runway, it was actually quite simple — and beautiful. Models waltzed through in striped shirts, shrunken piped navy blazers, lightweight chinos and boat shoes (made in collaboration with British brand Pointer), which lent a fun and flirty air to the proceedings. Navy blues, tans and creams were more direct references to the theme, while bright yellows and greens added some contrast.

Walker’s known for her custom fabric prints and many of her tiered chiffon dresses, flowing pants and silk blouses played directly with the seaside theme, with flag and bird motifs that were actually more subtle (and stylish) than we expected from looking at the program notes. Little touches like Edwardian frill detailing and bowler hats perfectly complimented the outfits, which ranged from classy basics (like tees and jeans) to some pleasant surprises… just check out the bright yellow windbreaker above. In the meantime, we brought along our FLIP video camera to capture some of the action from the runway. Check out the clip below:

- TC

New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer ’10: Robert Geller

September 14th, 2009

Robert Geller’s spring/summer show was one of the most anticipated of the week for many fashion editors and buyers — and for good reason: the German-native-turned-New Yorker’s clothes are refreshingly inventive with a high taste level, yet eminently wearable for all types of men, from the streets of New York to well, Berlin.

For his latest collection, Geller took inspiration from 1950s Germany — a time in which the country was working hard to leave the horrors of war behind in favor of a hopeful and prosperous future. The long runway at Exit Art (on Manhattan’s west side) reinforced the theme, with charred gray tiles leading to an archway of flowers, from which the models entered and exited. In the same way, the clothes that came down the runway were both dark and light, with rich shades of dusty plum and midnight blues sharing the stage with clean whites, tans and grays. The pieces were loose and layered, as per Geller’s signature, but tailored just enough to make out a strong and modern silhouette. And while the washed cotton jackets and heavy slacks suggested a utilitarian feel, pieces like the flowing silk scarves, men’s leggings (a la Rick Owens) and wool pants bunched at the knee added a playful and whimsical quality to Geller’s normally dark and moody aesthetic. In fact, it felt more like a collection for boys on vacation in Europe, than it did a statement on post-war German society. Every piece felt like it could be lifted from a suitcase and thrown on for a party, long hike, or motorcycle ride through the hills. These are the types of pieces you could wear in, beat up and re-wear over and over again, all the while knowing you’re the best dressed man in the room..

- TC

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