When Evan Biddell first appeared at LG Fashion week he was competing against two others for the inaugural Project Runway Canada crown. This week he showed up as champ; the stage was his and his alone. The self-taught Saskatchewan-born designer did his best to subvert runway conventions with a schizophrenic animated short as prologue (could have done without the website plug), followed by epic strokes of thunder and lightning, and murky lighting throughout. At one point Biddell had a series of unisex twins walk simultaneously, smashing the old runway adage that one head is better than two.

Theatrics aside, Biddell was intent on proving he fit in among Toronto’s fashion elite, with a bold collection of coats, dresses, jumpers, tanks and track suits. His signature cowl hoods–this time on puffy jumpers–were out in full force and elicited the strongest reactions from the audience. Biddell — like almost everyone in fashion these days — seemed to borrow from Lady Gaga’s unique but not-so-subtle brand of outer space Lolita-meets-performance artist from the future. Sheer fabrics and a metallic colour palette suggest Biddell is a fan of the Lower East Side pop princess, but these days who isn’t?

Biddell also bought into the harem pants trend, with both men and women sporting the look. For his sake let’s hope they stick around. Though impressive for its scope and audacity, we’re not sure if Biddell’s collection is quite ready to wear, unless Toronto suddenly becomes Neo’s Zion, and we find ourselves sweating in an underground rave. Still, the man knows how to sell himself and should become a mainstay at Toronto Fashion Week for years to come.

(photos by Jenna Marie Wakani)

- Daniel Barna