Let’s face it, when it comes to fashion week, Toronto still has some years to go before it can truly compete with Paris, or even New York for that matter. While Parisian designers have honed in on the drama and New York designers prefer clean and subtle presentations, many of the runway shows at Toronto Fashion Week are unabashedly loud and frivolous; an over-the-top potpourri of bright colors, shiny music and preening local celebrities, that makes for a spectacle that’s at once distasteful and oddly stimulating. If New York shows are noted for their sombre, black-clad audiences and carefully curated collections, Toronto shows are like a big family reunion, where everyone is welcome, and the diversely-speckled crowd is encouraged to whoop and holler for their favorite designer…regardless of whether or not they actually liked their clothes. In many cases, the clothing being shown almost seems secondary compared to the big party on the catwalk. Still, if you look carefully (and bring the focus back to the collections) there are a few jewels to be found in Toronto’s fashion week heap. While they might not exactly be diamonds in the rough just yet, they’re more than capable of shining — all they need is a little bit of polish. Case in point: fashion week newcomer Lizares.

The Toronto-based label was started by designer Brian Maristela less than a year ago, shortly after the Fanshawe College grad showed a mini collection with four of his classmates at last year’s fashion week. Buoyed by the positive reaction to his pieces, he decided to take the leap of starting his own full-scale line.

Lizares is based on Maristela’s mother’s maiden name, and along with his spring/summer 2010 collection, honors their Filipino heritage. Models breezed down the runway in modified versions of a “barong” — the traditional tunic-like Filipino garment for men — made more contemporary with a trimmer cut and fit, and subtle details in the stitching and embroidery. Sticking to a neutral palette of ivories, whites and blacks, Maristela also showed some ambitious suiting looks, with boxy blazers paired with skinny pants and just a hint of sheen. Male models in skimpy swim trunks provided some eye candy, but it was the beautiful linen shirting that stole the show — and that should be the Lizares staple. The feeling was light and airy, with just enough substance and fashion know-how to keep things grounded and unpretentious. The looks should appeal to a wide range of men, with the shirts and suits for those seeking a more fashion-forward alternative to department store staples, while the slim trousers and lycra briefs are for the more adventurous. All in all, it’s an impressive collection and a fine debut from a young talent who’s proving he’s ready to make a name for himself — and for his family — here in Canada.

- TC