Let’s call a spade a spade: the Catherine Malandrino presentation the other day did not get off to a good start. Already in a tizzy after finding out the designer was showing her collection via presentation format this year as opposed to a runway show, the restless crowd outside the Chelsea Art Museum was then herded into long lines that wrapped around the block, by a frantic, yelling PR rep barking instructions about how nobody would be let in if they didn’t cooperate. Not exactly the usual fashion week welcome. Still, all was forgiven as soon as we saw the clothes.

Malandrino’s collection for spring/summer was titled “Nomads,” with tribal and island influences running throughout the ornamented knitwear and lavish dresses. Models were divided into different “tableaux,” each representing a specific cultural identity and look. The “Sudanese” clans sported graphic zebra-like prints on viscose jersey and chiffon dresses, along with black and ivory embroidered shorts and assymetrical tops. The “Saharan” section, meanwhile, featured models wearing beautifully draped cotton tunics, jersey leggings and harem pants in a warm palette of beige, light brown and ivory.

The “Peruvian” and “Polynesian” tribes rounded out the collection with a flurry of colors, patterns and less conceptual and more wearable garments. Loose shirt-dresses, crepe shorts and fringes were balanced by long and flowing gowns, with pierced waistlines and ruffle detailing. Many of the models wore elaborate, printed head-wraps or flower headbands, while others were “inked” with tribal tattoos on their arms and legs. We loved the diversity of all the looks, and also the diversity of models used. This was a collection that was colorful in every sense of the word. It was vibrant, detailed, thoughtful and fresh… We’d expect nothing else from Malandrino.

- TC