It’s no longer de la mode to harp on the inconsistencies of Toronto Fashion Week or dwell on how late it falls in the season compared to all the other fashion weeks around the world. Because let’s face it, by the time Toronto Fashion Week rolls around, the Canadian designers who know what they’re doing have likely already previewed their new collections for the international press and been to a handful of trade shows and back, meeting buyers and (hopefully) filling out orders for the season ahead. Toronto Fashion Week then, is simply an excuse for them to get the clothes on real models (and off the trade show racks) and put on a show for the appreciative local audience. Sales appointments stemming from TFW are few; tweets are innumerable.

But while the importance of Toronto Fashion Week pales in comparison to say, Paris or Milan, it’s not without its merits. Those who argue that the event is out of touch or outclassed are missing an opportunity to catch potential rising stars in all their gloriously idealistic (and occasionally naive) infancy. And I mean that in a good way. Then there are the established veterans of the Toronto fashion scene, who are slowly but surely beginning to make their mark outside of the city. Without TFW, they would just be another designer or retailer. Now, they’ve been given a launching pad and we all have front row seats for take-off.

Here are five things that we liked from the spring/summer 2012 collections at Toronto Fashion Week:

1. EFFICIENCY was the name of the game all week, with shows starting punctually (some so punctually that half the audience missed it) and a well-paced schedule that alternated well between the large runway room under the tents at David Pecaut Square and the smaller studio space a few steps away.

Efficiency also made its way into many of the designers’ offerings, most notably local wunderkind Amanda Lew Kee (photo from collection at left), who paired her spring/summer collection down to just over a dozen tidy looks, after brazenly sending some 40 outfits down the runway just one season ago. The editing helped. While we found the looks kind of… basic (a bold digital print splashed onto a T-shirt by any other name is a printed tee), the pieces were accessible and wearable, paired with oxford flats and visors for a cute-meets-practical vibe and hopefully, a spot in your closet this spring.

2. BOLD PRINTS are easy to wear when they’re done well. And this season saw plenty of bold and beautiful prints, from Denis Gagnon’s floral tuxedo suit (as part of his aptly named “Denise au Jardin” collection), to Label’s marine-inspired palette (above middle), to Chloe Comme Parris’ Victorian era-esque garments, inspired by their mother’s artwork (coincidentally, fellow sibling-designers JUMA also unveiled prints inspired by their mother – only it was their mother’s photographs rather than paintings). Special mention also goes to Toronto-born and current Paris-resident Calla Haynes, who presented her spring/summer 2012 collection at pre-TFW event “The ShOws.” Haynes – who designs her own prints – showed a range of retro-inspired motifs on delicate, romantic frocks. But it was her acid-washed look on a denim jacket and pant combo that really grabbed our attention. And when we’re praising an acid wash look, you know there’s something special there.

3. WHITES. There’s nothing wrong with using white as the main color of a collection. But often there’s nothing exciting about it either. But when Thomas Tait presented his collection at “The ShOws,” it was astounding to see the way in which he made white stand out. The pieces were at once futuristic and retro, playing with length and shape to create a look that was androgynous and strange and undeniably beautiful. The Montreal-native and Central Saint Martins grad is now based in London and there were hints of British mod and rock influences in there as well. Throughout it all, Tait’s deft handiwork was evident in each garment, as he effortlessly mixed influences and textures (think loosely draped necks on dresses and fine ribbing on athletics-inspired pants) Paired with white tube socks and white Nike sneakers, the collection proved that there’s hardly anything basic about white.

4. “CANADA COOL” was the theme for Toronto Fashion Week this season, and while the tagline is both a) a little elementary school assembly-ish and b) grammatically incorrect, we couldn’t have felt any “cooler” or any more Canadian when Joe Fresh’s spring/summer collection marched down the runway. With a U.S. flagship store set to open on Fifth Avenue in New York, all eyes were on Joe Mimran’s team to see if they could deliver something worth boasting about to our neighbours to the south – and they did. With hits of bright color (including the label’s signature orange), vibrant prints and a greater emphasis on setting the trends rather than remaking the classics, the collection captured the whimsy of spring with elegance and subtlety in check. We were especially surprised to see a great range of menswear looks, that ran the gamut from nautical-inspired jackets and sweaters, to patterned blazers and clean-cut slacks. This being a mass-produced store brand, the small details were appreciated all the more: collars in contrasting colors and sizes, perfectly pleated skirts and a delicate ribbon or bow here and there.

And while comparisons to labels like Jil Sander will continue (it’s almost inevitable when you play with color blocking and volume), it’s clear that Joe Fresh is intent on making a name for itself in the U.S., without relinquishing its throne in Canada anytime soon.

5. WE JUST LIKE TO HAVE FUN. At the end of the day, we can’t take fashion so seriously. (Although, try telling that to the countless “bloggers” and “stylists” who whined and eye-rolled their way to a front row seat) Where else but in Canada can you find an entire runway show featuring garments created out of rugs? Or a lingerie brand and workout line showing as part of the week’s official festivities? The thing is, both of these shows were actually pretty fun to attend. While there are still many designers who profess that they’re “just having fun” when they’re actually taking themselves way too seriously, there’s something to be said about having a little creativity…with a wink. For another example, look no further than Sid Neigum and VAWK designer Sunny Fong: both showed some sprouty eyelashes as part of their models’ makeup look this week (photos above left). It was a memorable little touch that served to reinforce the aesthetic they were going for (Asian avant-garde for Neigum and “insects and architecture” at VAWK), while also showing that it’s okay for fashion to be frivolous and amusing (or bemusing) sometimes.

On the last night and last show of Toronto Fashion Week, Denis Gagnon closed out his presentation by sending out two female models dressed up (or down, depending on how you see it) for a mock wedding ceremony, complete with a kiss at the end of the runway. Everyone applauded wildly, the photographers in the pit snapped away and before long, Gagnon was practically skipping down the runway himself to join the models for a final bow. It was a fitting end to the week and a perfect reminder that whether it’s in Toronto or elsewhere, a little bit of fun can often go a long way.

- Tim Chan

(photos by Jenna Marie Wakani)