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Interview: Oliver Peoples’ Larry Leight Measures Up

May 3rd, 2012

Last week, Toronto eyewear boutique Spectacle marked the launch of their “Made to Measure” service with an exclusive shopping event held at the retailer’s Queen West shop. The first of its kind service will now allow wearers of Oliver Peoples, Mosley Tribes, or Paul Smith eyewear to customize their preferences with an assortment of frames and over 50 polarized and recreated vintage glass lens options. Among the attendees was Larry Leight, the Founder and Creative Director for Oliver Peoples. We had the opportunity to sit down with Leight and we got to talking about the company’s celebrity (and anti-celebrity) inspirations, Leight’s contributions to the optical world and the transformative nature of eyewear…
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A.P.C. Unveils its West Village Store

May 2nd, 2012

Our love for all things A.P.C. is well documented so we were thrilled when we got a chance to preview the brand’s new West Village outpost in New York the other week. Now open at the corner of West 4th Street and Perry Street, the store stocks the must-have A.P.C. staples, like selvedge jeans, classic button-downs and tees, while also expanding their accessories collection and playing host to special collaborations and projects. Aesthetics-wise, it reminds us a bit of the A.P.C. store in Paris, with the feel of a neighbourhood boutique that you pop into (again and again) as opposed to a big box shopping destination.

Hundreds of people feted the store’s opening party, where we had a couple of drinks and snacked on hors d’oeuvres from next-door neighbour Sant Ambroeus, while listening to a DJ set from Vampire Weekend’s Rostam Batmanglij. As for the clothes, we made a mental note of a preppy summer jacket we liked as well as a pair of derbies, but we’ll leave the shopping to another day… You can be sure we’ll be back.

- TC

SWIMS Collaborates with Armani for Fall 2012

May 2nd, 2012

We’ve blogged about our love for Norwegian lifestyle brand SWIMS before, especially for their practical yet fashionable footwear for a rainy day. But the brand is stepping up its game with a brand new collaboration with Armani for their Fall 2012 collection. Known for reinventing rainwear, SWIMS has now created a bespoke collection of modern day galoshes aligned with the unique artistry of Armani shoes.

We’ve got a first glimpse at one of the shoes, which come in a sleek black color and could easily pass as a high-end dress boot. The outer shell is totally waterproof, anti-slip, shock absorbing and tear- resistant. The inside, meantime, is fitted with a smooth liner that makes it easier to put on and take off the overshoe (and which, according to the brand, dually functions as a shoe shiner!)

This collaboration may have been unexpected and slightly outside the norm, but when the finished product is this good, it suddenly makes all the sense in the world. Expect to see the SWIMS galoshes in Armani stores this fall.

GANT Salutes The Ivy League

April 23rd, 2012

American heritage brand GANT is going back to its roots as the original maker of the Ivy League shirt, by partnering with ASSOULINE to celebrate the publication of “The Ivy League,” a new tome written by acclaimed author and journalist Daniel Cappello. Available in stores and online now, “The Ivy League” is a beautiful hardcover volume that explores the lore of the eight Ivy League colleges and universities, examining each institution’s identity by detailing its history, architecture and style.

GANT launched its celebration last week by dedicating its store windows at its 5th Avenue Flagship and Prince Street location to the book and the brand’s Ivy League heritage. GANT is also partnering with ASSOULINE for an in-store event. On May 3rd at the GANT Rugger store in New York’s Nolita neighborhood, Daniel Cappello will be on site signing books. The book will be for sale for $65, or guests who spend $250 or more during the event will receive a signed copy of The Ivy League, as a free gift from GANT.

Taking a cue from its own Ivy League heritage, GANT recently launched its “Yale Co-op” shirt collection, reminiscent of the classic collegiate style of the 1960s (think button down oxford shirts and madras prints). The collection, based on archival designs carried in the famed Yale Co-op campus bookstore, is now available in select boutiques and online and is sure to be a menswear favorite on campuses and city streets alike this summer.

And while the photo at right served perhaps as inspiration for the new collection, sadly, neither the preppy sweater or bull horn (or dog for that matter) are available for purchase at this time. Is it too soon to start requesting that GANT make those items for fall?

- TC

Interview: Andrew Hansford on “Dressing Marilyn Monroe”

April 18th, 2012

What would you do if a box of Marilyn Monroe’s iconic dresses was delivered to your front door? I would most likely try them all on, then find the nearest subway grate and re-enact her famous scene from The Seven Year Itch. Andrew Hansford, however, did not try on the dresses when this surreal scenario happened to him (as far as I know). When Hansford’s friend, Bill Sarris, surprisingly sent an entire box of famous Hollywood dresses to his door, Andrew decided to start “The Lost Dresses of Marilyn Monroe” exhibition in the UK. (Sadly, Sarris is suffering from Alzheimer’s disease, so part of the proceeds from the exhibition goes to the UK Society of Alzheimer’s).

The entire collection consists of almost 200 dresses and 4000 sketches all made by Oscar-winning designer William Travilla (Sarris’ business partner and friend). Since obtaining the legendary collection, Hansford’s life has forever changed, as documented in his new book “Dressing Marilyn: How a Hollywood Icon Was Styled by William Travilla.” Corduroy had a chance to chat with Hansford about the famous collection, the man behind it and the ultimate sex symbol herself, Marilyn Monroe.

How has your life changed since receiving the collection?
Quite considerably. Through time and research I became quite an expert on vintage fashion, Travilla and Marilyn. I also learnt a lot about Alzheimers and have been very active within the charity. In the end, the whole reason for me doing the collection is that I have met some incredible people who have been so helpful. I have travelled and written a book. If anyone had said that four years ago I would have laughed.

What is your favorite dress of Marilyn’s in the collection?
Her gold lamé dress. She wore it briefly in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes and also wore it to accept the award for America’s Fastest Rising Star (against Travilla’s wishes). She literally had to be sewn into the dress! No one else could walk in it, but Marilyn knew how to work it.

How much of a say did Marilyn have in designing the clothes?
None. A lot of celebrities did, but Marilyn trusted him implicitly. He would ask her what she thought and she would say, “It doesn’t matter.” Marilyn did, however, have one rule: she would not wear a full skirt. The one exception she made was with her dress in The Seven Year Itch, and she was okay with that because it ended up over her head!

How did Travilla like to dress his clients?
Just look at Marilyn, there’s not a single photo of her showing cleavage. Travilla knew how to dress her provocatively and sexy, and still show nothing! Pleating was his big thing. He also loved working with chiffon, velvet and silk; he never used unnatural fiber.

What do you love most about old Hollywood glamour?
I love the class and dignity they oozed, a timeless elegance that has somehow waned since then. They were immaculate in every way.

How about today’s Hollywood glamour? Does it still exist?
Very little, occasionally someone gets it right. But it’s all about the shock value and who’s wearing who, rather than the beauty of it. To be honest, a lot of the time a star gets it right, they are actually wearing vintage.

Do you admire any present day designers?
Tom Ford, D&G got it right this season, David Emanuel (who famously designed Princess Diana’s wedding dress)

What do you think William Travilla would think of what celebrities are wearing today?
I’m sure he would think they’re absolutely vile. Bill Sarris said everyone looks like crap at the Oscars. Back when he was dressing for the Oscars, stars would come to him and see what would work. Now the designers are throwing dresses at the celebrities, and they get to keep them all! Angelina Jolie apparently had 60 dresses to choose from at the Academy Awards! The dresses they’re wearing today are so not couture either – couture is handmade!

If Marilyn was alive today, how would you spend the day with her?
If I had the chance to spend the day with Marilyn it would be somewhere very relaxed so she could be herself, maybe around a pool having a lovely chilled glass of champagne or even tucked up on a couch with a carpet picnic and a lot of chat. It would definitely not be some glamorous event. Relaxed, casual and fun.

Why do you think Marilyn has remained so iconic in comparison to all of the other Hollywood Starlets of her time?
She was gifted with an amazing body and she knew how to work it. She went to Travilla because she knew he was the best and would make her look amazing. He put her in an amazing dress, and she took it the rest of the way. When she walked into a room, jaws would drop (both men and women). She knew how to play to the camera and she was lovely and generous to people, who immediately fell in love with her. Marilyn was one in a million.

Any anecdotes you can tell me that aren’t in the book?
Most of them are in the book, really. Although I will say that I tried my hardest to write the book without thinking that it was Marilyn Monroe I was writing about. As far as Bill and all the people I met that knew her were concerned, she wasn’t famous. She was so down to earth behind the cameras. Marilyn was the blonde bombshell and Norma Jean (her birth name) was the every other day girl. She really was two different people.

I have to ask, what were Marilyn’s measurements?
36, 22, 37. Today, Marilyn would be considered plus size and probably wouldn’t be able to find a lot of designer clothes to wear. My hope is that once you read the book you’ll realize what it’s like to dress properly, it doesn’t matter what size or shape you are. Travilla never dressed anyone under a size 8, he’d refuse! He’d say, “Why would I? It’s like dressing a little boy!”

“Dressing Marilyn: How a Hollywood Icon Was Styled by William Travilla” is now available at select bookstores and online.

- Hilary Allan

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