Time Traveling at Dior
Looking over the stills from Dior’s post-Galliano runway efforts, the designer’s absence is certainly becoming less apparent season after season. Bill Gaytten’s interesting first solo crack at couture last fall, frankly, left the fashion house with nowhere to go but up, and Gaytten has thankfully risen to the occasion for his Spring/Summer offering.

We noticed a real effort to return to the basics, from the models’ hairstyles hearkening back to the heyday of the house’s namesake in the 1940s, to the garments themselves, which were perfectly cinched to make the girls’ waists (seemingly) non-existent. The pieces epitomized the attention to the female form which garnered Christian Dior so much success in the early years, and continues to be a trademark of the label today.

There was a noticeable deconstructed quality to a lot of the pieces; the clean embroidery, the exposed undergarments and sheer layers of tulle all worked to create this tension between the seemingly unfinished pieces and traditional notions of couture as being pristine. However, we liked how Gaytten’s juxtaposition really highlighted the mastery and craftsmanship required to produce a couture garment. Hopefully this marks a turning point for a house whose fate has been up in the air for far too long.

They Tried to Make Gaultier Go to Rehab…?
Jean Paul Gaultier has pulled inspiration from many diverse sources in the past, but this time around, the enfant terrible of the fashion world was inspired by his arguable musical counterpart: the late Amy Winehouse. Both are larger than life characters who have never really cared about what others thought, and from her signature beehive hairstyle, to the retro-inspired looks, Winehouse’s influence was felt throughout the show.

But of course, Gaultier’s work is always well thought out and presented, never trying to get by simply on a gimmick. Indeed, the designer’s signature corseting was present in full force at his Paris show, rendered in the most exquisite applications of sequins, silk, and snakeskin.

Gaultier is a testament to the fact that haute couture does not necessarily mean an obnoxiously embellished ball gown, with reworked polo shirts and varsity jackets also making a refreshing appearance on the runway. And despite his muse’s untimely passing, we’re sure she would approve.

Revolutionary Repetition at Givenchy
Riccardo Tisci is undoubtedly one of the most popular designers at the moment (we can’t be responsible for our actions if we see one more person wearing that oh-so-popular Rottweiler shirt!) and the designer’s concepts are always original, unyielding and statement-making. This season, the designer was inspired by his storied career at Givenchy, revisiting some his signature elements in the context of what he has learned over the past seven years.

Tisci recognizes his value as a designer and didn’t seek to reinvent the wheel with this season’s couture offering. The silhouettes were classic Tisci; from the cut-outs to the sheer elements layered over top of subtly extravagant solids. Similarly, the ideology was overtly sporty (and not just because the lookbook was shot in a gym). Sheer tops were lined with cashmere wife beaters and each model was given a punk-edge with Tisci’s stunning take on the nose ring.

And yet, there was a very palpable sense of novelty in Tisci’s approach. We love that the ateliers continue to be just as innovative as the designers, cutting, dying and applying crocodile scales for example to a body sock, in order to give one of the gowns the illusion of knitwear. We also found the subdued earthy palette a very refreshing interpretation for spring and a marked departure from the ubiquitous “spring equals bright colours and floral prints” design strategy. Tisci doesn’t dare to fix what isn’t broken, but that doesn’t seem to stop the designer from revolution.

What were some of your favourite Couture collections this season? Do think that Couture is soon to become extinct? Leave your comments below and let’s discuss…

- James Lavapie

We featured artist Alex Prager’s work in Issue 8 of Corduroy and we’ve been excited to see what she’s been up to ever since. So imagine our (delightful) surprise when we saw this new short film that she shot for Mercedes-Benz.

Prager is no stranger to collaborations, having shot Bottega Veneta’s spring 2011 campaign. But this time, she takes the filmic and narrative qualities of her photographs and applies them to an actual film. Though reports have quoted Prager as saying that the film was inspired by childhood favorites, like “James Bond,” “Mary Poppins,” and “The Wizard of Oz,” the artist says it was more about capturing a moment and feeling, both with Mercedes’ brand new SL Roadster car and supermodel Lara Stone.

Prager and Stone (dressed in Calvin Klein Collection of course) shot the clip in the California Big Sky desert over the summer. At less than two minutes long, it’s more like an extended fashion photoshoot than a Hollywood movie, but the final 30 seconds deliver like a blockbuster all the same. At once poetic, slightly eerie and irrepressibly alive, the short film is at once a statement on the sophistication of the Mercedes brand as it is a representation of its power. Prager says she was struck by the styling of the SL Roadster and knew she had to produce a piece that reflected its beauty and romanticism, while also staying true to her own aesthetic tastes, which often have dark undertones.

As for Lara Stone the heroine? Besides complimenting Stone for her “classic women’s body” and femininity, Prager says she was struck by Stone’s acting skills and ability to emote. Her delicate features were the perfect contrast to the strong and bold vehicle being showcased in the project…though dare we say, Stone almost steals the show herself!

Check out the commercial (and a special behind-the-scenes look at the filming of the commercial) below and let us know what you think…

CALVIN KLEIN MAKES SPORT LUXURIOUS

Italo Zucchelli’s offering for Calvin Klein Collection epitomized the ultra-luxe sportswear aesthetic which permeated even the most characteristically dapper houses this season. Although the classic suit will never be overtly unstylish, we noticed that even the suited models were crowned with baseball caps. Zucchelli certainly led the pack with jersey/crocodile sweatshirts and easy suiting which seamlessly brought together notions of luxury and sport, while maintaining Calvin Klein’s commitment to fine details, clean lines and strong tailoring.

THE OPENING CEREMONY KIDS TAKE ON PARIS

This sportswear moment continued to enjoy prominence at Kenzo, with the models all clad in tweed suits paired with metallic sneakers. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim consistently capitalize on cool with their constantly-expanding Opening Ceremony empire, and all eyes were on the designing duo as they made their foray into designer fashion with their inaugural menswear collection for the brand. The silhouettes translated as very effortless, yet refined with the incorporation of bold paisley and graphic prints. It’s still clothing for the cool kids but with an upper-class, European twist – a solid and rightful progression for the (formerly?) downtown design duo.

PROGRESS AND PROGRESSION AT KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Kris Van Assche is the consummate innovator, and this season he chose to focus on the suit. Van Assche injected a utilitarian edge into his interpretation of the menswear staple, with the high, almost restrictive collars contrasting with an overall looser fit than we saw from the designer in seasons past. While we’re still unsure about the baggy pants comeback (also seen at Emporio Armani and Ferragamo), we loved the sturdy thick-soled boots which anchored the otherwise sharp silhouettes – they offered a great juxtaposition to the quilted outerwear and belted knits and gave us a more rugged, slightly more casual version of the Kris Van Assche man.

What looks or collections stood out most to you? And is refined, daring (and occasionally colorful) menswear finally making a comeback after years of heritage-inspired looks? Leave us your comments below and let’s discuss!

- James Lavapie

The company has released a teaser video of the Alber Elbaz-designed collection, with features chic tortoiseshell frames, curved aviators, and chunky square frames, accented with subtle jewels and color contrasts. The frames are at once daring and classic, not unlike pieces you would see in an art gallery – which makes sense considering the amazing amount of work and craftsmanship that goes into constructing each pair of glasses. Take a look at the video below and you’ll see what we mean.

The Lanvin eyewear collection will be available online and in stores this spring.

- TC

And just how did Miuccia Prada assemble his A-list models? According to the New York Times, she called up a bunch of actors and they all just happened to say “yes.”

Check out the full collection – and the actors in action – in the clip below: