CALVIN KLEIN MAKES SPORT LUXURIOUS

Italo Zucchelli’s offering for Calvin Klein Collection epitomized the ultra-luxe sportswear aesthetic which permeated even the most characteristically dapper houses this season. Although the classic suit will never be overtly unstylish, we noticed that even the suited models were crowned with baseball caps. Zucchelli certainly led the pack with jersey/crocodile sweatshirts and easy suiting which seamlessly brought together notions of luxury and sport, while maintaining Calvin Klein’s commitment to fine details, clean lines and strong tailoring.

THE OPENING CEREMONY KIDS TAKE ON PARIS

This sportswear moment continued to enjoy prominence at Kenzo, with the models all clad in tweed suits paired with metallic sneakers. Humberto Leon and Carol Lim consistently capitalize on cool with their constantly-expanding Opening Ceremony empire, and all eyes were on the designing duo as they made their foray into designer fashion with their inaugural menswear collection for the brand. The silhouettes translated as very effortless, yet refined with the incorporation of bold paisley and graphic prints. It’s still clothing for the cool kids but with an upper-class, European twist – a solid and rightful progression for the (formerly?) downtown design duo.

PROGRESS AND PROGRESSION AT KRIS VAN ASSCHE

Kris Van Assche is the consummate innovator, and this season he chose to focus on the suit. Van Assche injected a utilitarian edge into his interpretation of the menswear staple, with the high, almost restrictive collars contrasting with an overall looser fit than we saw from the designer in seasons past. While we’re still unsure about the baggy pants comeback (also seen at Emporio Armani and Ferragamo), we loved the sturdy thick-soled boots which anchored the otherwise sharp silhouettes – they offered a great juxtaposition to the quilted outerwear and belted knits and gave us a more rugged, slightly more casual version of the Kris Van Assche man.

What looks or collections stood out most to you? And is refined, daring (and occasionally colorful) menswear finally making a comeback after years of heritage-inspired looks? Leave us your comments below and let’s discuss!

- James Lavapie

If you’re in Los Angeles tomorrow night, make sure you stop by OHWOW gallery for the opening night of our friend Daniel Arsham’s latest exhibition. Entitled “the fall, the ball, and the wall,” this is Arsham’s first solo exhibition in Los Angeles, and features everything from two-dimensional work to sculpture, installation, public art, and performance, in an effort to (re)consider architecture, the natural world, and the manner in which they interact. The show illustrates the artist’s continued interest in manipulating architecture and in challenging expectations of accepted realities.

Arsham (who we profiled in Corduroy Issue #8) presents three bodies of work, like structural interventions that cause walls to appear in a state of flux, as if they are melting or dripping. They speak to the notion of architectural rigidity and of a partition’s standard presentation.

With a new series of work on canvas, meantime, Arsham depicts realistic building constructions, which include elements that spell out words (like “UH HUH,” image seen at left). And his aestheticized sculpture and installations realize hypothetical architectural elements and counterintuitive designs, queuing new possibilities and coercing material to behave in unexpected and atypical ways.

Whether through his solo creations or collaborations with architects, dancers and choreographers (like his good friend Merce Cunningham, whose set pieces from his final performances will be on display), Arsham presents work that undoubtedly possess visual drama and evoke a visceral response. And we encourage everyone to see and experience it for themselves.

Daniel Arsham’s “the fall, the ball, and the wall” runs until February 16th at the OHWOW Gallery, 937 N. La Cienega Blvd. in Los Angeles. The opening reception takes place this Friday from 6-9 pm.

I’ve been wearing my tortoiseshell Alain Mikli glasses now for almost two years and they’ve sort of become an unofficial and somewhat reluctant trademark for me (in other words, I’m the “guy with the glasses,” at least to those who don’t know me by name). Still, I love wearing them, not only because of the way they look, but because of the outstanding craftsmanship and quality put into each pair of specs made by Mikli’s team in France. So imagine my thrill when I received an invitation to have dinner with Mr. Mikli himself during his recent visit to Toronto. My answer, of course, was a resounding YES.

Mikli was in town to launch his latest collection – a line of limited edition eyewear with French clothing designer Jean Paul Gaultier. Friends for decades but never collaborators until now, Mikli and Gaultier have aligned their creative pursuits and flair for design into a collection of 20 frames (12 eyeglasses and 8 sunglasses) in a handful of bold and dramatic styles and colorways. Made from sturdy acetate and metal, and featuring unique “winged” arms on the side (meant to resemble corset ties), these are, as Mikli puts it, “frames to see as well as to be seen.”

Mikli’s years of workmanship and technical expertise guided the frames, while Gaultier added his characteristic irreverence and playful style. During our dinner in Toronto (at the lovely Maléna Restaurant in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood), Mikli explained that both designers wanted to push their ideas out of the box, while retaining a classic elegance and timelessness to each piece. While I appreciate the inventive designs and unique combination of colors, I was most struck by how there was no outer logo on the frames. Instead, the designers chose to let the frames (and each individual wearer) speak for themselves.

While Gaultier has collaborated with everyone from La Perla to Target, and Mikli continues to collaborate on an eyewear line with good friend and designer Philippe Starck, the “Jean Paul Gaultier by MIKLI” collection speaks to a new and different audience: one that appreciates good quality design and an imaginative spirit, paired with a youthful exuberance and sense of humor. If my Alain Mikli glasses can be counted on to capture a look or two at a party, you can be sure this new collection will have people staring all night long.

The “Jean Paul Gaultier by MIKLI” collection is available at the Alain Mikli boutique on Madison Avenue in New York and exclusively in Toronto at Karir Eyewear (Mikli and owner Bob Karir have been friends for more than 20 years and it was Karir that first launched Mikli’s line in Canada). Prices for the collection range from $325 to $460.

- TC

Founded in 1992 by Scott Irvine, leather accessories company Brave Leather is committed to creating quality leather goods the fair, honest and ethical way. Beginning simply enough with Irvine’s desire to recreate the “cool” belt worn by Brad Pitt in the film Thelma and Louise, Brave Leather is now carried across 1100 stores in 27 countries. With the brand’s 20-year anniversary fast approaching, the company continues to expand with their “Make Your Own Belt” service launching in January 2012. In anticipation of the launch, we had the opportunity to visit the Brave Leather Factory in Toronto, where we got to make our own belt, and sit down with Irvine. to chat about his early years growing the business, the ethics behind the label, and the true meaning of the word “Brave” in the company name.

After experiencing success as a street vendor selling his handmade leather creations across Toronto, Irvine set out across North America with nothing but his minivan and his dog, Gypsy. “I was 23 years old at the time,” Irvine recalls. “I just needed enough money to pay my rent and eat.”

Irvine certainly led a rather subsistent lifestyle in the first few years of Brave Leather, sleeping alongside Gypsy in his car to save money while traveling. “In the morning, I would go to the gas station and wash-up, and fix-up my hair and away we go,” he recalls nonchalantly.

However, 20 years later, Irvine’s memories of pedaling belts out of the back of his van are little more than remnants of the past. The designer partly attributes the brand’s longevity to his unique ethical stance, in a world where even the so-called “green” products are often made in China using sub-par environmental and labor standards. “There is a cost to all the cheap stuff you buy at the big box stores,” Irvine remarks, “and the cost is human misery, it really is.” Irvine’s view on big business is unsettling, yet unfortunately accurate in many cases. “I’ve seen it with my eyes and we avoid it like the plague.”

Irvine’s moral compass has been the guiding force behind his business, even in the initial stages. “The approach isn’t that much different now,” he says; “It’s just bigger.”

Nevertheless, what has changed is the meaning behind the word “Brave.” After being kicked out of his original location selling belts in the Queen East Beaches, Irvine received an offer to set up shop in front of a flower shop in the gay village. His response: “Well, hmm, ‘that’ll be interesting,’” I thought to myself. “I’m a straight guy, I’m from Markham and I don’t know, but okay I’ll try it.” Upon hearing of his move to Church Street, Irvine’s friends commended the young businessman by saying simply, “Wow, you’re brave.”

The literal meaning behind Brave Leather has certainly evolved over the years. It’s equally as brave, some would say, to stick with a vision for a product line and commit to its growth. And of course, it’s also brave to invite journalists — myself included — into your factory to customize their own belts. As for my creation (that’s me working hard in the photo above), it was definitely a challenge to perfect, and hardly up to par with the company’s usual quality and craftsmanship. In fact, wearing my hand-made belt out in public and putting my name behind it might just be the bravest thing of all.

- James Lavapie

Berlin-based womenswear label Lala Berlin celebrated its inaugural runway showing at Toronto Fashion Week last month. The line, founded in 2003 by designer by Leyla Piedayesh, aims to accent a woman’s personal style through an eclectic mix of soft modern knitwear and rock-and-roll staples.

Piedayesh’s “woman” this season appears to be a psychedelic hippie with a rock-and roll edge. Textiles were manipulated to create something new and modern, draped and slung over loosely on some garments, while closely cropped and asymmetrical on others. Our personal favorites were the knitted tops with transparent overlays, and the dresses printed with an almost mezmerizing kaleidoscope print.

Piedayesh did a lot of collaborating in producing this collection, partnering with German brands Unützer on the footwear, and CHRIST on the accessories. “It’s always good to get the knowledge and also the capacities of other people to do things that they can do much better than I do,” Piedayesh explains. “I think collaborations are quite important to do since we’re still quite young [and] we are not able to do everything at this point.”

Utilizing outside talent has certainly worked to the designer’s benefit, with some ultra-chic harness necklaces and suede cut-out heels finishing the models’ looks before they stomped down the runway in Toronto.

But why show in Toronto? Piedayesh says it’s a mix of wanting a global fashion hub and plain ol’ curiousity. “This was a really nice occasion to see a place I’ve never been to before,” she says, “and really I have to say that I’ve met some really nice people here.”

Next season might see Lala Berlin take over New York, or venture back to Europe. More collaborations could also be on the way. The possibilities are endless for the young brand, and Piedayesh says she’s just trying to go with the flow and not over-think it.

“As long as you feel right with whatever you’re wearing and doing, I think everything will be fine,” she says. “At the end of the day I think everybody should just be comfortable, whether in clothing or in everyday life.” We know scores of women who will be more than comfortable wearing Lala Berlin this Spring.

- James Lavapie

(photos courtesy FDCC / George Pimentel Photography)